Lake Dunstan Cycle Ride

With the Old Pharts well rested after their Otago Rail Trail cycle adventures, it was time to tackle the Lake Dunstan cycle ride. As they are staying in Arrowtown, they drive to Cromwell, where they are using the company Kiwi Journeys for this day ride. This company provides bike hire, plus shuttles riders and bikes to Clyde, so the riders can then cycle back to Cromwell. About 45kms for the ride.

The day is brilliantly fine, although a little cool. It is expected to warm to a pleasant 25degrees C. The bonus of cycling in this direction is stopping for lunch at Carrick winery, near Cromwell. Also exploring the old heritage end of Cromwell township.

A fantastic ride, very well supported by Kiwi Journeys!

The Otago Rail Trail

February 2025

Prior to commencing their Rail Trail cycle tour with Tuatara Tours, the Pharts have two days in Christchurch, and two in Queenstown. The former provides the opportunity to catch up with old school friends and their wives. Shaun and Michelle from London, Cameron and Maria from Nelson and Brian and Jo from Auckland.

We enjoy exploring central Christchurch, which is really quite vibrant and looking really good. We walk the Bridle Path, Botanic Gardens and dine at Roca, which is excellent. Great catching up with lifelong friends.

Back on the plane, and the Pharts fly to Queenstown. They have two nights at the Lomond Lodge, before being collected and hitting the Trail. Dinner that night is at Italian restaurant “Bella Cucina.” Ok .. 6 out of 10.

A cracking day the next day, so the energetic travellers climb Queenstown Hill. A reasonably tough climb, but fantastic views make it worthwhile.

Dinner that night is at “Finz” on Steamer Wharf, catching up with old cricketing friend Russell Mawhinney. We had the Blue Cod .. delicious!

The next morning, we are collected by Dennis from Tuatara Tours, and motor to Clyde to commence our Otago Rail Trail Bike Tour. There are ten of us on the tour, 4 Kiwis and 6 Aussies. We have stops on the way for morning tea and lunch, then a side trip to Ophir and a historic suspension bridge. Dinner that night is the Station Cafe at Lauder, and accommodation at the old Lauder School and Store.

Before jumping on the bikes and commencing day 2, Dennis drives the group to nearby St Bathans for a look. Now a small settlement, it thrived during the gold rush era.

It’s then back to Lauder, on the bikes and back on the trail. After the customary morning tea stop, we continue on to Hayes Engineering, where we stop for lunch. We are giving a tour around the site, and an explanation of many of the Hayes inventions, including the fence strainer.

We continue along the trail and arrive at Ranfurly and Hawkdun Lodge. This is to be our accommodation for the next two nights.

Dinner is food prepared at the nearby Maniototo Cafe. Delicious! We hit the hay early in preparation for tomorrow’s ride, Ranfurly to Hyde.

The day is misty and chilly as we set off for Hyde, but by morning tea the cloud has lifted, and temperature rising. The ride to Hyde only takes a couple of hours, and is very scenic and picturesque. After lunch, we motor back to Ranfurly and prepare for Curling in Naseby.

After a quick drive around Naseby, we head to the world class indoor Curling Rink. After instruction, we split into two groups and have a game. Great fun and quite a lot of skill involved.

Back to the Hawkdun, a quick scrub up, then out to the Wedderburn Tavern for our dinner. Top tucker!

We are woken early by heavy rain, but by departure it has cleared away. It is cool however, so an extra layer is required for our final day. We are driven by Dennis to Hyde, and prepare for the final 27km ride to Middlemarch, the end of the trail.

After the compulsory morning tea stop, it is the final 12 km push. The wind is strong, and we are directly into it. However Middlemarch arrives quickly, and the ride is over.

The bike tour has been a great success. Tuatara Tours does it well, and tour guide Dennis was excellent. We enjoyed the company of our fellow cyclists. Time to start thinking about next February’s tour!

Brisbane, Australia

The Pharts arrive at Heathrow Airport after a very pleasant stay with Niven and Marianne in North London. They are approached by a Cathay Pacific staff member with a proposition. Would we be prepared to travel the next day, Business Class, and be accommodated in a nearby Airport Hotel? “Ok”, we said, although it meant skipping our one night stopover in Hong Kong.

The next morning, back to Heathrow, and off we fly. Business class is very comfortable, with the passenger able to convert the seat to a bed. A four hour stopover in Hong Kong, then back on the plane, Premium Economy, and Brisbane. We arrived very late to our apartment, then hit the sack.

Despite a sleep in, the Pharts are jet lagged, but pop down the road for brunch, then a short 15 minute walk into town. They are staying in an AirBnb apartment in Spring Hill called “The Johnson.” Son Scott and partner Eva rent an apartment in this complex, so a perfect location.

Great to catch up with Scott and Eva, and dinner is at a Mexican restaurant in nearby Fortitude Valley.

After a less than perfect nights sleep, the old groovers haul themselves out of bed, and eventually wander down to nearby Victoria Park. This used to be a golf course, but is now parkland, with a cafe which the travellers visit for a much needed caffeine hit.

They then walk into the city, lunch in the City Botanic Gardens, and back to the Johnson and a swim in their pool.

Dinner for the evening is at Felons Brewery at Howard Smith Wharf, under the Storey Bridge. We are catching up with an old mate of Blair’s called Ross, and his wife Chris. Blair (the Prince) and Ross (the King) have been mates for 40 years, having met on a Contiki trip around Europe. A great night of catching up and reminiscing!

The old groovers pull on their walking shoes, and head off to explore the local sights. Firstly, nearby Roma Street Parkland, then across the river and along the South Bank. Back across the river and up to the Sky Deck, with panoramic views over the city. Admission is free! A bit more shopping, then back to the digs to rest the feet, then down for a swim in the complex’s pool.

Dinner is a short drive to the South Bank area, and a visit to the restaurant at the Emporium Hotel. The restaurant is at the top of the hotel, with views out across the city. Also, a very interesting use of interior lighting. The food is spot on.

And to our final full day and night in Brisbane. It’s going to be another scorcher, so the Pharts decide a sedate river cruise is the right option. A 90 minute journey down river and back, with an interesting commentary on the history of the area.

Back to the “Johnson” for a swim, but it has clouded over somewhat, with rain threatening. We decide to dine locally that evening, and the four of us wander across the road to a Vegan restaurant. Good tucker and reasonably priced. We have enjoyed spending time with Scott and Eva, and can see why they are enjoying life in Queensland.


Bristol

As the travellers cannot move in to their Bristol AirBnb digs until 3pm, they decide to visit Tyntesfield, a National Trust property, just outside Bristol. This impressive property has been owned by the National Trust since 2002. Once owned by Britain’s richest non noble, who made his money in Guano for fertiliser, imported from Peru! There is also an art exhibition in the main house called “The Uninvited Guest” Reviews of the art have been mixed, with the Somerset Gazette likening it to a pile of poo!


The Pharts settle into their Clifton digs, and our joined by son Andrew and partner Neethd for pre dinner drinks. Great to see them again after almost a year! Dinner is at a Japanese restaurant in Clifton Village called Yakinori. Excellent food, service and atmosphere.

The next day is Friday, and Andrew has the day off work. We collect him from his flat in Brislington, and drive to the Cotswolds.

The popular TV host Jeremy Clarkson, of Top Gear and Clarkson’s Farm has recently opened a pub and farm shop near Burford. We check it out, buy some goodies and are amazed to see people queuing to get into the pub. Kiwis don’t queue I’m afraid!

Back to Burford for lunch, then on to explore the Cotswold villages Stow on the Wold and Bourton on the Water. Picture postcard places and very much on the tourist trail. Back to Bristol and dinner at Aqua, White Ladies Rd, within easy walking distance.

A pleasant day weather wise, and the Pharts walk 40 minutes into the city centre. A coffee with Andrew, who is working, then exploring on foot, particularly along the river area. Lots of steps, so a well earned rest before driving to Andrew and Neethd’s flat, and dinner at their local, “The Langy”

Today we collect Andrew and Neethd, and drive to the Mendip area. A nostalgia trip for Sue, with strong family ties in the area. We have a roast lunch at The Lytton pub, then drive to the places of interest.

A quiet evening, with the Pharts picking up a pizza from an outlet on Whiteladies Road. Top quality!

Today is a golf day! We drive to the outskirts of Cheltenham and the Cotswold Hills Golf Club. The weather is cold and drizzly, and a bag carry only ruling by the club for the day. We meet up with old Uni friends of Sue, Mike and Fiona, who are club members. A fun day, despite the weather, and Mike and Fiona are great company. We have a cup of tea at their home in Cheltenham, then drive back to Bristol. Dinner is at the trendy steak restaurant “Pasture”. The steaks and sides are excellent, with the aged steaks cooked to perfection.

Another opportunity arises to meet with Sue’s rellies, after Covid curtailed the previous gathering. We have lunch at the Railway Inn in Sandford, which is alongside Thatchers Cidery. A nice lunch and great to catch up with Aunt Joan (96 years young), cousins Sally, Jenny and Dips as well as Sally’s husband George.

Our final dinner with Neethd and Andrew is a middle eastern city restaurant called Cappadocia. Excellent food and we say our goodbyes to Neethd. She is in New Zealand for a wedding in December, so may see her then.

Our final day in Bristol. We say farewell to Andrew, and will see him in January, when he is also in NZ for a wedding. We walk to Clifton Village from our accommodation for lunch. Then across the Clifton Bridge, back past the Observatory, through the Downs and home.

Chard

It’s back to Sue’s old home town, Chard, South Somerset. We find our Air BnB, which is in a rural setting and very quiet. A meal in the first evening, ready for the interment of Sue’s mothers ashes the next day.

We meet Sue’s brother Jim and his wife Nicki, and bury Yvonne’s ashes in Chard cemetery. We are then treated by Sue to lunch at The Cotley Inn, a Michelin star gastro pub in the nearby village of Wambrook. Back to Jim and Nicki’s, and load the car with boxes of photos and papers, for Sue to sort through!

Dinners is at an old favourite, the Windwhistle Inn, near Cricket St Thomas. Decent pub grub, but the Pharts are still pretty full from lunch.

The next morning the travellers wake up with sniffles, and are wary as Tim and Sharon in Swanage had both tested positive for Covid.

However, they decide to drive to a National Trust property near Crewkerne, called Montacute. Magnificent gardens and a huge home, dating back to the 1600’s.

The Pharts have developed heavy colds, so pick up a Covid test pack in Crewkerne. They test and oh no, positive. That will change the plans for the next couple of days.

With the Old Pharts still Covid positive and feeling a little under the weather, activities are limited to outside, with little people contact. Also dining in of an evening. Planned gatherings with the family over the weekend have been postponed. Sue had also arranged to meet up with old Uni friends in Winchester on Monday for lunch. Sadly, cancelled.

It is thus local walks and exploring. We drove to and climbed up Pilsdon Pen, one of the highest points in Dorset, with panoramic views. And also back to our old favourite, Lyme Regis. We managed a walk along the waterfront and Cobb, before the rain set in.

Having joined the National Trust shortly after arriving in England, we are keen to make the most of. About 9 miles away, near Ilminster, is Barrington Court. It is a worthwhile visit, with impressive gardens and buildings. Also, over 20 years ago, Blair played cricket there in Sue’s brother Sean’s village cricket team. Sadly the ground had been “let go.”

With the Pharts still testing positive, and with a very wet day forecast, it is decided a trip to Taunton is on the agenda. They pick up a few bits and pieces, have a pleasant luncheon then drive back to Tatworth in the pouring rain. They dine in again, care of goodies picked up from Marks and Spencer.

The next day, Covid free! They meet Jim and Nicki for lunch at the Windwhistle, a spend a pleasant few hours in their company. They can finally dine out again of an evening, so drive to Hunter’s Lodge, Axminster. Good, honest pub grub. The next morning it is pack up time, and off to Bristol.

Portsmouth and Swanage

It’s time for the Pharts to move on, destination Portsmouth.Sue has some old University friends who live on the way, so we call and say hi. Then on to Portsmouth, or “Pompey” as the locals call it. Our accommodation is at the Ship Leopard Boutique Hotel. The location is near the Gunwharf Quays, a large development with shops, restaurants and residential. The hotel is dated and tired, but fine for a night.

The evening is cold and wet, but we walk into the Quays, have a drink at a bar then dinner at the “Giggling Squid”, a lively Thai restaurant. Great food, but the oldies order too much.

After a not great sleep in a too hot room, and an average breakfast, we head off for a walk around the waterfront area. A windy morning and a bracing walk. Time then to pack up the car and drive to Swanage, on the Dorset coast near Bournemouth.

On the way, Sue has another old Uni friend to see, Carolyn and her husband Mike. They live at Barton on Sea, and kindly invite us for lunch. Great catching up with them, then it is on to Swanage and Tim and Sharon. Tim is an old school and Uni friend of Sue’s, and they have been to New Zealand a couple of times. Great to see them and spending two days in their company. Lots of walking in the local area, plus talking and catching up.

The next day is more walking and exploring around the Swanage and the isle of Purbeck area. Stunning scenery, and great fun and company with Tim and Sharon.

After two most enjoyable days, it’s time to leave Swanage and motor to Chard. A couple of spectacular Dorset stops on the way. Firstly, Lulworth Cove, noted for its unique geology and land forms. We continued on to Abbotsbury, a quaint little village on the Jurassic Coast. An excellent lunch set us up perfectly for the final push to Chard.

Eastbourne, England.

The Old Pharts are back in overseas travel mode, as they head to England. They are flying Cathay Pacific, and have an overnight stopover in Hong Kong. As it is a brief stay, they rest overnight in the Regal Airport Hotel. More than adequate.

Very soon, it is back on the plane and on to Heathrow Airport, London. A late arrival means a stay at the Premier Hotel, near the airport. Once again, perfectly fine.

The next morning the rental car is collected, and the Pharts are heading to the South Coast, via Tunbridge Wells and Scotney Castle. It is wet and cold, and the travellers are tired, but manage a look around the castle and grounds. Then, on to Eastbourne and two nights in an AirBnb.

Dinner that night is at an Italian restaurant, a short walk along the road. It is called La Locanda Del Luca. Excellent food and service.

After a not particularly great nights sleep .. jet lag is still an issue .. the days dawns fine and sunny. In the morning Eastbourne is explored by foot. In the afternoon, they head up past Beechy Head to Burling Gap and the Seven Sisters.As they soon found it, this is a particular popular destination. People everywhere, in particular, tourists. Still, plenty of room for everyone and spectacular scenery.

Driving back to Eastbourne, we decided to have a look at the Sovereign Harbour complex. A mixture of retail, residential and commercial at the east end of Eastbourne. Marinas, locks and harbours, providing access to the sea. Most impressive.
Dinner is at the very busy Bistrot Pierre, which was excellent, followed by a walk along the Promenade and .. bed! The bodies have not adjusted as yet to the different time zone.

Queenstown

It is time once again for the Old Pharts to make their way south, for the annual ski week. They are staying in an apartment complex at Arthur’s Point. This is a small settlement about ten minutes out of Queenstown, and near the Coronet Peak access road.

Unfortunately this year our friends Cameron and Maria are unable to join us, due to Cameron’s work promotion, and leave changes.

We arrive to a very wet Queenstown, collect our rental car, purchase a few provisions then settle in to our digs. Dinner that evening is at Kobe Japanese restaurant at Millbrook resort. Excellent food and service!

After a solid night of rain, it is no surprise the next morning to see the ski fields are all closed. Ironically it is a nice warm day, so we walk around Lake Hayes. About 8kms, which takes just over an hour and a half. Lunch in Arrowtown, then we call in to Ayrburn, a new development nearby, with restaurants and plans for an upmarket retirement village.


Back to the apartment, and after a short rest, we explored the local area. A couple of good eating spots, plus nearby there is the Canyon Brewery.



Dinner was just down the road at Gantley’s Tavern. Good pub grub!

After heavy overnight rain, Coronet Peak is again closed for the day. The Remarkables is open, but snow quality is wet and heavy. We decide to drive to Arrowtown for an early lunch, then a round of golf at the nearby Arrowtown golf course.
We hire clubs and trundlers. The course is tight and challenging, with lots of surface water from the recent rain.

Dinner that evening is at La Ramblas in Arrowtown. We are joined by an old cricketing friend of Blair’s and long time Queenstown resident, Russell Mawhinney. Always great to catch up with Russ, and he is joining us again later in the week. The food was excellent. Small plates for sharing and a decent crowd in.

Wednesday dawned fine and frosty, and finally the Old Pharts had the skis on and were sliding gracefully down the piste.

Coronet Peak is busy but not crowded, with no queues for the main chair lifts. The snow is a bit sparse, with patches of ice coming through. By early afternoon the Pharts have had their fill, and make their way back to their apartment.

After a hard day on the slopes, nothing like a cold beer, then pizza for tea!

Another fine day forecast, and the Pharts load up the car and drive over to the Remarkables ski field. A busy day, with a reasonable snow covering, although it softens by late morning. The Pharts get lots of runs in, and are happy with their work.

Dinner was again at Gantley’s Tavern, as was breakfast the next morning. Their last day in Queenstown, so the Pharts hire e bikes from Arrowtown, and cycle the Arrow River Bridges trail out to Gibbston Valley. Lunch is pizza and a beer at the Gibbston Valley Tavern, before cycling back. A round trip of 40 kms along an excellent and scenic trail.

Dinner for our final night is once again Kobe Japanese restaurant at Millbrook. We are joined by Russell, and enjoy a great evening of excellent food and company.

We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay, and look forward to returning in February, when we cycle the Rail Trail and Lake Dunstan.

Alps to Ocean Cycle Trip

The excitement builds as we are collected from our hotel by Daryl, our guide for the next five days on our Alps to Ocean cycle ride. 300 kms in five days!

After a briefing at Tuatara Tours headquarters in Christchurch, we hit the road. Twelve intrepid travellers, with four Kiwis and eight Aussies.

Morning tea in Geraldine, lunch in Lake Tekapo township then we mount our bikes and are off. The ride to Twizel is 55kms, and the weather perfect. We check into our comfortable accommodation in the Lakes Motel, scrub up and dine at Poppies restaurant, which is excellent.


After a great breakfast, we are back on the bikes and make our way to Lake Ohau. The weather is perfect, and an idyllic ride around the lake to our destination, Ohau Lodge. After lunch, it is back on the bikes, and a 17km ride to the historic Quailburn Woolshed. A tough uphill ride .. thank heavens for e bikes! Daryl is there to meet us, and transport us back to Ohau Lodge for drinks, dinner and bed.


Day 3, and we awake to very strong winds at Ohau. Daryl decided the best course of action is to do Day 4’s ride today. It will involve a fair bit of driving, but so be it. After a visit to the nearby Clay Cliffs, we motor out past Otematata, and commence our ride. We stop at Kurow for lunch, then continue to our destination of Duntroon. The wind is very strong, but mostly at our backs, which is appreciated! It is then back to Omarama, and our very comfortable Sierra Motel. Dinner is at a local restaurant and is top quality.

Day 4, and with the weather now fine and calm,we can do the Day 3 ride through Omarama and around Lakes Benmore and Aviemore. These are lakes created on the Waitaki River by the hydro electric schemes of the 1960’s. The track around Benmore was steep, rough and quite spectacular! A great days riding, with some of the group opting for some tasting at a local winery. It was then on to our accommodation and dinner, at Waitaki Braids.

Another perfect day weather wise, although a tad cooler. This is our final day on this epic bicycle journey. It is from Duntroon to Oamaru, a distance of 54kms. We pass the Elephant rocks, ride through on old railway tunnel, across farmland and down into the attractive township of Oamaru.

This has been a really enjoyable tour. The weather, accommodation, food and fellow travellers were all excellent. Tuatara Tours do it very well, with a special mention for our guide and leader, Daryl. He was terrific .. very capable, nothing phased him and a great bloke.

Christchurch

So on to Christchurch, and after dropping off our rental car, we check into the Muse Art Hotel on Manchester Street. A nice hotel in a perfect central location.

The weather is warm and windy, and in fact there is a fire blazing out of control in the Port Hills. A wander around the city features lunch from the busy Riverside Markets.

Dinner is at Rascal Bistro and Bar, literally around the corner from our Hotel. They specialise in small plates, and the food is excellent.

After breakfast at the Hotel, we walk through the city, the Botanical Gardens, back through the city then to Little High for lunch. Warm, sunny day and lots of people around, creating a vibrant atmosphere. Lots of construction going on in central Christchurch, including the new Rugby and Events stadium.

Dinner is at Francesca’s Italian Kitchen, one of our local favourites. It delivers once again! We are all set for our cycle journey, starting tomorrow.