Our first stop in Ho Chi Minh City is lunch at, in the opinion of our guide, the best Pho restaurant in Vietnam! It is delicious, with the added greens and chilli, to flavour it up.
Next stop is the War Remnants Museum, a stark reminder of the horrors and futility of the Vietnam War. Notre Dame and the Post Office Building are next, then checking in at our centrally located hotel.
A group meeting in the hotel in the evening is an opportunity to say goodbye to group members leaving the tour, and a time for reflection on highlights thus far. Dinner at a nearby restaurant recommended by Kien. This is a huge city, with traffic to match.
Our final excursion with tour guide Kien, as we drive to the infamous Cu Chu tunnels. A sprawling network of tunnels and living quarters used by the Viet Kong during the war. Amazing how ingenious they were, particularly to avoid detection by the US soldiers.
Back on the bus to the Cambodian border, and goodbye to Tour guide Kien, and 6 other tour group members. Just 12 of us now continuing the journey to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
A horrendously early start sees the group catching a 6am flight from Da Nang airport to Ho Chi Minh City airport. Into the city two pick up two new additions to the group, then bus down into the Mekong Delta.
The Mekong River is one of the longest in the world .. about 4900 kms! After negotiating heavy traffic, we take a sampan to Cai Be village, and cruise on the Mekong. We stop to visit some of the local cottage industries, and have lunch at a traditional home on Dong Hoa Hiep Island.
Back on the bus for Can Tho. A slow journey, due to road works on one of the bridges over the Mekong. Finally we arrive at the impressive Victoria Hotel, with an olde worlde charm. Two large swimming pools and a very impressive restaurant. The Pharts are tired, due to the early start, so are boring and eat in. Delicious none the less!
Another early, but not quite as early start, and we depart the hotel for a river boat tour of the river markets. This is a local wholesale market, with the river boat people selling direct to restaurant owners etc. We clamour on to a boat selling pineapple, with some prepared for us for eating. Back on dry land, we explore the local fish market, before back on the bus, heading for Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
Day 5 of the tour, and it’s on the bus to travel to Hoi An. Just outside of Hue, we stop at the ornate mausoleum of the Emperor Tu Duc, one of the Nguyen kings. Shortly afterwards, an Incense factory, with an opportunity to buy locally made products and souvenirs.
Lunch is at a restaurant close to the beach in Da Nang. Very nice, and then an opportunity to check out My Keh beach, often called China Beach, made famous by a TV series of the same name.
A short bus journey from Da Nang, and we are in Hoi An. The town is only just recovering from significant flooding, so the hotel pool is not available. However, the hotel is comfortable and close to the old town. Hoi An is very popular with tourists, with the charming ancient town area particularly busy. Our guide Kien took us in to the Old Town, recommended restaurants and places in which to have clothes made, leather to buy and spectacles and sunglasses. The Old Pharts get measured up, and order shirts to be made. Very reasonable prices. We dined at one of his suggestions, and were happiness filled. The walk back to the hotel takes us through the night markets, where Blair purchased a bag. The coloured lanterns, narrow lanes and wooden houses are highlights.
Day 6 and an early start, as most of the group are cycling into the countryside, to Tra Que village. Here, we discover age old farming practices, with hands on experience of tending gardens and cooking lunch.
The activity for the evening, is an optional Street Eats tour, each of us on the back of Vespas. Most of the group turn up, and it is a great success. Lots of food and drink, fun riding on Vespas and a river cruise to boot!
Another early breakfast and departure, this time to Bana Hills Resort, a creation for tourists about an hour inland from Hoi An.
It is famous for the Golden Bridge, held in place by giant hands. There are six separate gondolas all heading up, with the peak being at 1500m above sea level. The weather is cool and misty, but we proceed in the hope it will clear. Fortunately it does, it we get great views of the bridge, plus the purpose built township. It even has its own brewery, which is a great place to stop for a beer and a snack.
After a sunset river cruise back at Hoi An, we said goodbye to 6 of our group, who were heading off to other holiday destinations. We dined once again at Morning Glory restaurant. An outdoor table with great views of the river and lights of Hoi An.
The “On the Go” tour group is reunited again, and are off to explore the nearby Citadel and Imperial City. This is a vast 19th century imperial citadel, full of shrines and palaces. It was the home of the Nguyen dynasty. The Citadel contains the Imperial City, which in turn contains the forbidden Purple City. The complex had fallen into a state of disrepair, but in 1993 the site was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the remaining buildings preserved and restored.
The group had lunch at a restaurant organised by our tour company. It was located within the Citadel walls, and was fantastic food. Numerous courses beautifully prepared and presented.
After lunch we visited Thien Mu Pagoda, home to the oldest monastery in the city. The 21 metre high tower has become something of a symbol for Hue and the citadel.
Back to hotel, a swim in their pool, and dinner also at the hotel. Bus to Hoi An tomorrow.
The next morning, it’s on to the Coach, and the group are off to the World Heritage site of Halong Bay. It has thousands of limestone islands, diverse karst formations, and numerous caves.
After a few hours on the coach, we reach the main town servicing the Bay area, and board our boat. We each have our own cabin, and will be very comfortable for the next 24 hours.
After an excellent lunch, a number of us go kayaking, and also explore one of the beaches on the many islands. Halong Bay is a very busy and touristy area, and unfortunately there is a bit of debris floating around.
A demonstration by chef on how to make spring rolls, is followed by a wonderful 4 course dinner. The food cannot be faulted!
The cabin on the boat is air conditioned, and we sleep well. For those who wish, there is Tai Chi on the boat deck at 6:15 am. After breakfast, a number of us are transported to a nearby island, featuring the Sung Sot Cave. It is massive, with impressive stalagtite and stalagmite formations.
It was then back to the boat, Halong City, bus and back to Hanoi. The group then had a rickshaw ride around the Old Quarter, with Kien also showing us the sights on foot. The group then divided into two. The train travellers taking the overnight express to Hue City, and the remainder, who were flying. We were the latter, and very pleased with ourselves!
The Old Pharts are on the move again, this time to Vietnam and Cambodia. They have decided to do an organised tour with “On the Go Tours”
To reach Hanoi in Vietnam, it is Auckland to Singapore, a short layover, then a three hour flight from Singapore to Hanoi. An On the Go representative meets us at the airport, and transport us to La Casa Hotel in the city. We arrive Wednesday afternoon, tired, but happy with our accommodation. We settle in, then take a short walk around the local area. Millions of motor scooters, busy footpaths with the locals going about their daily business. We dine in the local restaurant in the hotel, which is cheap, and excellent food. An early night for the weary travellers.
As the tour doesn’t start until Saturday, we have two days to explore Hanoi on our own. We walk the half hour or so to the Old Quarter, past the Hoan Kiem Lake. We find a cafe for a Vietnamese coffee .. nice and strong .. then explore the Old Quarter. Very busy, with lots of vendors selling goods, a busy undercover market, and scooters everywhere! Walking back to the hotel at lunchtime, lots of locals sitting on small stools around tables, on the footpath. Combined with the traffic, a lively atmosphere!
After lunch at the La Casa, we wandered along to Thong Nhat Park and Bay Mau Lake. This is a large green space in central Hanoi, with lots of people exercising, playing games or generally relaxing. It certainly wasn’t relaxing for the Pharts getting there and back. Constant stream of scooters on the roads and parked on the footpaths made for quite an obstacle course. People eating and drinking on the narrow footpaths added to the congestion. You certainly have to be aware going across pedestrian crossings. The traffic just keeps coming! Then back to the hotel and dinner. We haven’t been game to try the local restaurants as yet, but plenty of time for that.
After an excellent buffet breakfast at the La Casa, the tourists decided to venture to Train Street. From the main railway station, the trains make their way through a narrow alley, packed either side with cafes. Not much room between cafe and train. We had a coffee at Cafe Hanoi 1990s, but the next train was over an hour away. However, got the idea of the tight squeeze!
Then it was a stroll back to Thong Nat Park, around Bay Mau Lake, then back to the hotel.
The remnants of a typhoon which hit the Phillipines, passed through central Vietnam. No signs of it here, although it is raining. Still a pleasant 25 degrees.
For dinner, the Pharts decide it’s time to venture out to a local eatery. About ten minutes walk is a restaurant made famous by hosting Anthony Bourdain (food writer), and President Obama. Bun Cha Huong Lien. For around $25NZ for two, you receive Spring Rolls, noodles, pork in broth, salad greens and a beer. The place is very basic, but quick service and great food.
Saturday morning, and the Pharts have opted to do an optional tour with guide Kien. They are joined by a Kiwi couple, Tony and Cathy, and Canadians Sarah and Gabby. A combination of taxi, scooter, bus and walking saw us take in the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, Temple of Literature, Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton), plus morning tea, lunch and a couple of beers. A great day and well worth it.
A quick flight from Austin, and we are in our final destination, Houston. It is about a half hour drive from the airport to our downtown hotel. As in Austin, it is extremely hot, with 35 degrees the expected high.
We go for a wander to find some lunch, and the downtown streets are quiet. With limited activities in the local area, we catch a tram to the Natural Science Museum. Quite an eye opener, as lots of homeless people in the downtown area, with quite a few getting on and off the tram.
The museum itself is interesting, with a live butterfly area, and some interesting jewellery and mineral displays. Then the tram back to the Main Station, and some more“interesting” local sights. We are pleased we are not spending too much time in Houston. First impressions are underwhelming.
There are not a lot of dining options within walking distance, so we wander down to a food court on Main Street called “The Finn.” Final night in the USA, so we had to have burger and fries, washed down with a cold beer.
Our final day in Houston and the States, so we do a two hour sight seeing tour in an air conditioned mini van. Saw a lot more of Houston, and appreciate it is a huge city. Within the downtown area is an extensive underground area linking buildings, with shops, cafes etc. Unfortunately, most of these are closed in the weekend. The downtown business area is like a ghost town in the weekends. A combination of the extreme heat, and workers living in the suburbs.
And with that, it’s time for our final Uber ride to the Airport, and the fourteen hour flight home.
It’s been a terrific trip. Quite ambitious, and we are ready for home. Have enjoyed the diversity of the different cities we have visited, each with their own charms and personalities. The USA is a massive country. Most of the fifty states have a bigger population than New Zealand! Great country, but there is no place like home.
Another Airport, Uber ride and city, and now in Austin, Texas. Our hotel isn’t quite ready, so we explore the local area. The Colorado River runs through Austin, and there is a tremendous amount of construction going on. It is one of the USAs fastest growing cities, with a strong tech presence. We even saw driverless cars! The temperature is in the early 30s, with high humidity, and we are pleased when our room is ready.
Very close to Downtown is Rainey Street, consisting of a number of old bungalows. These have been converted in to bars and restaurants, and we had dinner at Bangers. This specialises in sausages and smoked meats, but also have salads and vege options. The street is now surrounded by high rises.
Today is bike tour day, and our guide is Rooster, who is quite a character. With another couple, he guides us around Austin on powerful e-bikes, which you don’t even need to pedal. It’s an interesting tour, and Rooster does a good job.
It is the beginning of summer, and Texas is really warming up. 34degrees today in Austin, and Houston could be hotter.
After dinner at a Japanese restaurant opposite our hotel, we walk down to the river area to do a kayak tour. The main purpose of the tour is to watch the Austin bat population fly out from a bridge, to get their food. There are approximately 1 million bats who have made the underside of the Congress Bridge their home. Around 9pm they emerge and swoop off. Huge numbers of people on the water and on the bridge to watch. A little difficult to see, and somewhat of an anti climax.
Another hot day in Austin, but our activity today is mainly indoors. We are going to the nearby Texas Hill Country and a BBQ lunch, followed by wine tasting at two wineries. Our tour leader is Jax, and making up our group are seven young ladies from Florida, on a bachelorette weekend. Assisting Jax is Cliffy, and both guides are friendly and helpful.
Lunch is at Salt Lick, a traditional Texas BBQ joint, where they slow cook the meat, and use flavoursome dry rubs. The meat is very tender and melts in the mouth!
Off to our first winery, which is just over the road, called Fall Creek. Many of the wines are made from local grapes, some from other parts of Texas and some from California. All good quality. Ten minutes up the road is Duchman Winery, specialising in Italian varieties made from Texas grapes. Again, good quality.
The volume on the ride back has gone up considerably, but the ladies are good value and interested in NZ.
As we had a large lunch at Salt Lick, we weren’t particularly hungry, so dined once again at the Japanese restaurant opposite. Once again, good food.
We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Austin. A modern, lively city which impressed as a nice place to live. However, very hot in summer. Tomorrow, our final destination, with a day and night in Houston, before we fly home.
Quite a tiring journey from Nashville to New Orleans, as we had a stopover in Atlanta. However, upon arrival at our Homewood Suites hotel, although early, our room was ready. A change into lighter clothing, and off we go exploring.
It is noticeably warmer and more humid than previous destinations, but it is manageable. The French Quarter is very busy with people, and Bourbon Street is as expected, tacky and touristy.
Back to the hotel, then dinner at a restaurant up the road, which is Vietnamese. We will sample the local food tomorrow!
Today is our New Orleans bike tour. There are four other people on the tour, a group from New Zealand! Our tour guide is Eric, and he is excellent. A local, with great knowledge of the history of the area. It was interesting cycling around the inner city neighbourhoods. The overall impression was of a place of unique character, but quite rundown and grungy. The road surfaces were poor, and the areas were not at all affluent. New Orleans is built on a swamp, is hot and humid and vulnerable to hurricanes and flooding, so you need to be resilient to live here!
Eric took as to a cemetery. Burials must be above ground, due to the swampy, shifty ground below. Families are buried in mausoleums, stacked on top of each other. A coffin is placed in its burial site, and is not touched for a year. After this time, the heat has caused rapid deterioration of the body.
Overall, a really informative tour, one of the best we have done. For lunch we went to the famous Cafe du Monde, and indulged in the Beignet, deep fried squares of sweet yeast dough, absolutely covered in icing sugar. Once we removed most of the sugar, they were not bad, but hardly earth shattering.
As it was hot and humid, we walked to a large outlet mall by the river. Nice and air conditioned, and Blair picked up a bargain top from Tommy Bahama.
Dinner for the evening was a restaurant nearby called Streetcar Cafe. Nothing fancy, but a chance to try some of the local dishes such as Gumbo and Jambalaya. Both dishes include rice, and are tasty and filling. Talking of local foods, I have been having grits for breakfast. Similar to porridge, it is made from coarsely ground corn, which is boiled. Pretty much tasteless, so ingredients need to be added to provide flavour.
After a hearty breakfast, and loaded with grits, we visited a museum which caught our eye. It is the Pharmacy Museum, and the building, constructed in 1822, is the apothecary and residence of the USAs first licensed pharmacist. An extensive and fascinating displays of old potions, treatments and equipment.
Our final night in New Orleans, and we dine at Luke, a slightly more upmarket venue than our previous dining options. It is very busy, with the usual American prompt and efficient service. The food portions are huge, with my pork schnitzel taking up most of the plate. A nice way to conclude our stay. Tomorrow .. we are off to Texas.
And so, out to Nashville Airport and a 90 minute flight to Charleston, South Carolina. A turbulent flight, as we flew through a front. However, we landed safely and settled in to our hotel, the Homewood Suites. We dined at an Italian restaurant, Mario’s, recommended by the receptionist. Went for a wander in the local area after dinner. Very warm with light showers, and we liked what we saw.
The next morning, we had booked a Walking Tour with a history commentary from our guide. He was particularly knowledgeable, and a forceful personality. We found it most worthwhile. Had a good walk around the historical area of town, which is very walkable. It is certainly warm .. probably early 30’s, but not uncomfortable.
Dinner was at Virginia’s on King, which was wholesome food in a nice, friendly environment. There happened to be a live music event in Marian Square next door, so after a wander around Charleston College, we sat on the grass to watch. A local singer on keyboard, with a drummer to accompany. Very polished.
Tomorrow, New Orleans, or as the locals say, Noo Awlins.
