Bay of Islands, March 2018.

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Our Bay of Islands/Far North tour began with a stopover at Waipu Cove. It is about 50 kms south of Whangarei, at the southern end of Bream Bay. The black is beautiful, and our accommodation at the Waipu Cove Resort, close by. That evening we wandered down to the Cove Cafe, which to our surprise, being a Monday night, was very busy. However, they found us some space and we dined well. Our accommodation was fine, and we set off for Russell the next morning.

On our way north, we stopped at Kawakawa. It has public rest rooms designed by Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. It is one of the few public toilet blocks seen as an international work of art, and a tourist attraction in its own right.

Onwards to Russell via the car ferry, which runs regularly throughout the day. The Bay of Islands has two main townships, Paihia and Russell. They are geographically close, separated by water. Which to choose?

Paihia is larger, with more accommodation and eating options, and is close to Waitangi. Russell is smaller, easily walkable with a lot of history and character. It has a nice beach and a number of bars and restaurants. We chose Russell.

Our accommodation was the Duke Motel, set in a quiet location with a nice swimming pool. An easy five minute to the Russell waterfront, and a ten minute stroll over the hill to the beach.

Russell was the first permanent European settlement and sea port in New Zealand. It was also the first capital from 1840-41, before Auckland took over. Pompallier Mission, the printing/ tannery/storehouse of the early Roman Catholic missionaries, can also boast to be the oldest surviving industrial building in the country. The town also holds Christ Church, NZ’s oldest surviving Anglican Church.

That evening we dined at the Duke of Marlborough Hotel on the waterfront. In their own words, “Refreshing Rascals and Reprobates since 1827.” The building has been lovingly restored, with verandah dining offering great views over the bay. The food and service were excellent, and reasonably priced.

The next day we caught the ferry from Russell across the bay to Paihia, a 15 minute ride. We then walked along the waterfront to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, an easy 30 minute walk. We purchased a day pass .. $25 for NZ residents and $50 for overseas guests. This proved great value, as it gave access to the grounds, museum plus guided tours and Maori cultural performances.

As you journey through the expansive grounds with spectacular views over the Bay of Islands, you walk in the footsteps of people who changed history. The museum was modern, and provides an excellent explanation of the Treaty through a fully interactive multimedia display. A place that all New Zealanders should visit at least once in their lifetime.

Waitangi Treaty House began life as British resident James Busby’s house. He was our first winemaker. Busby trained in Europe as a viticulturalist, and brought a collection of grapevines that helped to found the Australian wine industry. In the late 1830’s he established a vineyard at Waitangi.

Dinner that evening, back at Russell, was at the Gables. Possibly the oldest restaurant in NZ, the food was wonderful, although a little more expensive than the night before. The service at both of these restaurants was attentive and professional.

Our excursion for the following day was the popular boat trip to the “Hole in the Rock.” This is a hole in a small island at the end of Cape Brett, and takes an hour or so of motoring to reach, often accompanied by dolphins. With some skilful driving, the skipper was able to manoeuvre the boat through the narrow gap.

Our chosen excursion included a lunch stop on the homeward journey to Otehi Bay on Urupukapuka Island. After lunch, there was time to explore the island and take in the views, before returning to Russell. A great days trip, with quite a bit of time on the water. It can be choppy, as a warning to those who struggle with sea sickness.

Dinner was at Hone’s Garden. This pizza and casual dining place is tucked away in Russell, and a real delight. Mostly outdoor tables with parasols, but small areas under cover. Great food and service, and reasonably priced.

Our final day in the Bay of Islands is spent at the Waitangi golf course, which is near the Treaty grounds. Friends from Hamilton were holidaying in Paihia, and like us, golf enthusiasts. The course features a mix of holes that were sheltered and set amongst the bush, and others that were windy and exposed, but with fantastic sea views. The course was challenging and our scores not great, but the experience was enjoyed by all.

Loved the Bay of Islands! Now on to Coopers Beach and the Far North.

This was my first time to the Far North, but Sue had visited many years previous.

Our accommodation at Coopers Beach was a 2 bedroom cottage, in a Cove near the beach. We explored the nearby town of Manganui, and had fish and chips at the famous Manganui establishment.

The next day we booked a tour to Cape Reinga, returning down 90 mile beach. We were collected near our accommodation, in a 4 wheel drive bus.

After a couple of hours of motoring, we reached the northern most tip of New Zealand. There was plenty of time available to explore the lighthouse and surrounds. The views were spectacular, and we could make out where the Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea met.

After lunch at a nearby beach, we motored across to the beginning of 90 mile beach, via some large sand dunes.

With “Boogie Boards” provided, there was an opportunity for us tourists to climb up, then board down the dunes. Sue and others seized the opportunity, and loved it.

After driving down the road that is 90 mile beach, we were dropped off back to Coopers Beach. A really enjoyable day trip.

The next day was wet, but we still explored Mangonui and the Karikari Peninsula. The latter has one of NZ’s nicest beaches, Matai Bay. We also booked a round of golf for the next morning at the Carrington Resort golf course.

Heavy overnight rain meant the course was very wet, but we played regardless. The course was excellent. Very well maintained with many interesting and challenging holes. After the front nine, we took the opportunity to head up to the Cafe and Winery, for a half time coffee and muffin. We were the only players on the course, and thoroughly enjoyed it.

The next destination on the tour was the Hokianga. A very natural and unspoilt corner of NZ, it is often overlooked by tourists. Our accommodation was at the Copthorne Hotel in Omapere. Nice place with great views across the Hokianga.

Just half an hours drive south from Omapere is the Waipoua Kauri Forest. This contains “Tane Mahuta”, NZ’s largest known living Kauri Tree. The forest contains many other giants, and is well worth a visit.

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in the Hokianga, but our travels were coming to an end. Our next destination was the Kauri Museum in Matakohe. ( about half an hour from Dargaville). Thirty minutes before Dargaville is the Tronson Kauri Park. With an excellent DOC maintained track, it was another opportunity to view the giant Kauri.

The Kauri Museum tells the story of the mighty kauri tree, its fascinating gum and pioneering past. Stunning displays and informative imagery and scripts.

We thoroughly enjoyed our tour of the Far North, and would recommend to tourists and kiwis.