February, 2021 - Old Pharts on Tour

Westport, Feb 2021.

With the rain easing, and time on our side, the Old Pharts decided to visit Shantytown Heritage Village, just south of Greymouth. It tells the story of the West Coast gold rush back in the 1860’s. It is a mock town from those times, with informative displays and hands on activities such as panning for gold. It has a cafe where we dined for lunch. An interesting stopover, but not in the “must do” category!

It was raining upon our arrival in Westport. We went straight to our accommodation at Carter’s by the Sea, at Carter’s Beach. We had stayed there previously. Modern and comfortable. Next door is a cafe/ restaurant Donaldos, where we dined that evening. Very happy.

The next day we continued driving up the West Coast to Karamea. A small settlement close to the Heaphy track. Just beyond, the road finishes. The plan was to explore The Oparapa. However, further research told us it is only accessible by a 15km gravel road, and best done on guided tours. We decided to leave it for next time. We had a coffee at the “Last Resort”, and quick explore of the Main Street, then headed back to Westport. With time on our side, and the weather improving, we played golf at the Westport golf course. By the sea at Carter’s Beach, a typical links course. It was well maintained, with excellent greens.

For dinner that night, we ventured into central Westport, and dined at PortSide Bistro and Bar. Good service, good food and reasonably priced.

After two very pleasant days at Carter’s by the Beach, we were back on the road. Destination .. Takaka and Golden Bay.

Fox Glacier, Feb 2021.

After an overnight stop in Wanaka, it was back in the Mondeo the next morning for the three or so hours drive to Fox Glacier.

About an hour north of Wanaka, on the Makarore river, are the Blue Pools. A short walk from the car park, they are worth checking out.

After lunch at Haast, we continued on to Fox Glacier township at a good rate. The forecast for later that day and the next was for rain, so we had limited time to see the glacier and Lake Matheson.

Unless you take a helicopter ride, it is difficult to get a close view of the glacier. We took the south track, which gave a reasonable view.

Lake Matheson is worth a visit, especially on a fine day. The walk around the lake takes about a hour, and provides excellent views of Mt Tasman and Mt Cook. If you are lucky enough to strike a calm, sunny day, the mountains reflect off the lake.

Our accommodation for the night was at the Fox Glacier Lodge, and for dinner we popped around the corner to The Last Kitchen. Excellent food and service. The lamb fillet special for me, and the Chicken and Cashew stir fry for Sue.

During the night we were woken several times with torrential downpours of rain, and it was raining steadily as we departed for Westport.

Stewart Island (Rakiura), Feb 2021.

The flight to Stewart Island is just twenty minutes, on a small, ten seater aircraft. From the airstrip, a minivan is waiting to take passengers and bags into Oban.

As we arrived into Oban at 9.30am, it was too early to check into our accommodation. We decided to catch the next available ferry over to Ulva Island, and spend a few hours exploring this Sanctuary. The day was fine but windy, the sea lumpy but fortunately the ferry was sailing.

Stewart Island is predator free, and has an abundance of Weka, Kaka, Robin, Kakariki, Saddleback, Tomtit and the occasional Sea Lion basking on the beach.

Dinner that night was at the restaurant at the South Seas Hotel .. booking essential! Our choice, the Blue Cod. Battered for me, baked for Sue. Both beautiful!

The next day we decided to do a number of local walks in the Half Moon Bay Area. After the obligatory coffee at the hotel cafe, we set off. We even passed the local golf course on our travels. Six holes of rustic fairways and greens! We reached as far as Ackers Point for lunch.

Dinner was takeaway Cod and Chips from the legendary Blue Fish and Chip cart near the waterfront in Oban. Delicious!

Later that evening, once it was dark, we went exploring for Kiwi, in areas we heard were likely spots. No luck.

The next day, after the usual at the South Sea cafe, we explored the Museum. Housed in a new building, it provides an insight into the history of the Island, along with many artefacts.

We then walked around the Horseshoe Bay and peninsula, with its many pristine, golden sand beaches.

That evening, Sunday, is quiz night down at the Hotel. We decided to participate, and although the pub is packed, we find a home with a local team. All good fun.

This being a final night, last chance to spot a Kiwi. Once again, sadly,no joy, although we did see deer and a possum!

The next day, which is beautiful and calm, it is time to leave, and fly back to Invercargill. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time on Rakiura, and look forward to one day returning.

Invercargill Golf Club Feb 2021.

Hamilton friends Jim and Gaye Fitchett had been in the South Island for a few weeks, and we all happened to be in Invercargill at the same time. We are all golf enthusiasts, so a round at the Invercargill golf club was arranged.

The weather was fine and warmish, and the course in excellent condition. It is demanding, with many dog legs and tight fairways. Accuracy was paramount off the tee, with Jim superior to Blair in that department. Needless to say, Blair was shouting the drinks in the 19th. Sue and Gaye both played well .. 38 points.

We all dined together that night at the Speights Ale House in Dee Street. We were amazed at the huge amount of choice on the menu. Something for everyone and we departed happiness filled!

After a very comfortable night at the 295 on Tay Motel, it was out to the Airport, and a flight to Stewart Island.

Te Anau and Doubtful Sound, Feb 2021.

After a night in Queenstown and dinner with old cricketing friend Russell Mawhinney, the Old Pharts set off for Te Anau. The plan was a round of golf at the very picturesque Te Anau golf course, followed the next day by a Doubtful Sound day cruise.

The golf course was in excellent condition, with scenic views from almost every hole.

That evening, we dined at the Thai Anau restaurant. Excellent food, reasonably priced and attentive service. It ticked all the boxes.

The next morning it was a twenty minute drive to Manapouri Village, for a day cruising expedition. This was a cruise on Doubtful Sound with the tour company “Real Journeys”.

There were 65 passengers on the trip, with most being Kiwis. Generally the percentage of NZers on such trips are low, but such is the effect of COVID.

Access to Doubtful Sound is a boat trip across Lake Manapouri to West Arm, alongside the power station. Then a 22 km Coach ride on the Wilmot Pass road to Deep Cove, at the beginning of the Sound. This road was purpose built to aid in the construction of Manapouri power station. It has the honour of being NZs most expensive road .. $2 per centimetre!

An excellent day. Perfect weather with dolphins, seals and whales (fleetingly) all sighted in the Sound.

By coincidence, Sue’s friend Debra East and her son Mitch were in Te Anau, so the four of us dined at Redcliff restaurant. This has the reputation as the best restaurant in Te Anau, and we were all most impressed!

The next morning was an early start to be at the Invercargill golf club by 11.00am.

The Routeburn Track Feb 13-15

After an overnight stay at the Novotel, Queenstown, it was an early start to catch the bus to the start of the Routeburn Track. Starting point is on the Te Anau to Milford Sound road, midway between the two. Our guide company was Ultimate Hikes, with two nights staying in their luxury lodges, with all food provided, plus being accompanied by three of the companies guides. In front of us was 32 kms of mixed terrain, climbing steadily to about 1400 metres, before our descent to the end.

The first notable destination on the track was Key Summit, which provided panoramic views. After lunch, we continued tramping on to our first overnight stop, McKenzie Lodge, alongside McKenzie Lake. Distance walked the first day, 12kms.

The Lodge is owned and operated by the Ultimate Hikes company, and is very comfortable .. a hotel in the bush! Hot showers, three course meals and a bar .. very civilised.

After a solid nights sleep, and a hearty breakfast, day two was to be an 11 km hike to Routeburn Falls Lodge. This involved a steady climb to the highest point of Conical Hill, at 1400 metres. As we were above the Bush line, and with excellent weather, the views were superb.

With lunch consumed, Conical Hill conquered (and an encounter with a Kea at the summit), we continued our journey to Routeburn Falls Lodge. Once at the Lodge, we felt we deserved a cold beer prior to our three course dinner.

After another solid nights sleep in the very comfortable Lodge bedroom, it was time to prepare for the conclusion of the walk. This was to be a 9 km walk to Routeburn Road end. Our coach will be there to drive us back to Queenstown, via Glenorchy. This was mostly downhill on wide and smooth terrain, with some rocky patches.

We stopped for lunch at Forge Flats, where some of the group bravely decided to swim in the very chilly water.

And then, we reached the end. The adventure was over. The Old Pharts thoroughly enjoyed their first Great Walk. Next year .. the Milford Track?

Full credit to Ultimate Hikes and our guides Blake, Tess and Lara. A very professional organisation.

South Island Tour Feb 2021.

With the Ford Mondeo loaded up, it was a days drive to Wellington, a night in the QT Hotel, and on board the ferry to Picton the next morning.

From Picton it is another long drive, this time to Christchurch. However the spectacular coastal road north and south of Kaikoura is a welcome distraction. Stay the night at Rydges Hotel Latimer Square, and dinner at Francesca’s Italian Kitchen. Both excellent.

With two days to reach Queenstown, we decided to stay somewhere overnight on the way, and we chose .. Waimate! We had heard it had an excellent golf course, so play it we did. Quite a challenging course in immaculate condition, with numerous established trees. Not our best golf in the end, but most enjoyable. Dinner that evening was in the recently refurbished Waimate Hotel.